Found another campsite right beside the water at our next campground near Kabelvag. A beautiful deep bay with a small sandy beach. The superb weather was continuing so I just had to take the plunge so I could brag that I had had a swim in the Arctic. The water was cold – like middle of winter in Auckland – but the sun was warm!
View out the door of camper van one morning
After a day spent on the Unitary Plan (it was our only wet day in nearly 2 weeks) we decided to venture into the closest town for dinner. Good meal but we are noticing that whale meat in various forms is always on the menu. We have questioned why they have it on the menu but tend to get evasive replies. We even saw cured whale meat at a stall selling cured meat and salami. Eating out is definitely a lot more expensive in Norway. A main course in an average restaurant will set you back $45-50.
Richard is really keen to catch a good sized halibut so we went out for 4 hours fishing one evening with this guy from a small village in the north of the island we were staying on. Good fast boat, excellent gear and very knowledgable guide but no halibut. But it was a beautiful evening and glassy calm.
The next day we decided to try out the Lofoten Links golf course. We had no idea what to expect. Stunning setting (of course as this is Norway). Apologies to non golfers for a bit of golf talk here. Richard said it was the most difficult course he had played – think the most difficult features from Jacks Pt, Arrowtown and Kinloch all put together. The most frequently uttered words on the course were “Oh shit !” when we arrived at the tee and couldn’t see where the fairway went or if there was one at all followed by other expletives as balls went into the impossible rough on all sides. The tracks between holes were equally challenging- at one point it was so steep with deep gravel that I had to push Richard who was in turn pushing the trundler (we had both small bags on one trundler). Challenges and exhaustion aside (by the end we were both shattered as it had taken us well over 5 hours and long distances between holes – lots of time spent looking for balls especially Richards’) we had a great afternoon. The course was well designed and punished the least bit of inaccuracy.
We spent a total of 5 nights at Kabelvag which made for another pleasant break. We discovered an organic bakery in Kabelvag which is very rare in Norway and made regular visits there (only for bread!). Made me think of Were Bros bakery in Auckland. We are trying as many of the specialities in food as possible. So far this has been based mainly around fish. Dried fish is used in lots of dishes – they soak it and then grill it. It was surprisingly good. Bought some elk salami from a stall which tastes really good. Still haven’t tried reindeer meat.
The last day we hired a small boat from the campground and managed to catch our dinner – some cod which we barbecued whole.